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Ha Noi

Day 22

This was to be a chill and shopping day I had promised Lauren. We slept in until 8:30 which was 3 hours late for me. 

Pearls. Those were the goal. Lauren was on it. Going in, we agreed I would be the banker and bad cop. Lauren would be the good cop. 

We found a tiny shop with a good reputation. Due to the tight space, lots of maneuvering was required to see the products and options. The store had a tiny showroom in front and I assume assembly operations were in back. 

I sat back and Lauren took charge. She got a tour of the products and the various options. She set out to configure just the right gifts for Susan, her Mom. There were decisions about style, size of pearls, clasps, colors, etc. Lauren took it all in and went to work. 

There were 3 ladies working behind the counter and the English was excellent. It was never more clear as when a tall man from the mediteranean or perhaps the middle east walking in, made some hasty selections and spent a bunch of money. I got the feeling he was leaving country soon.

Lauren chose Susan’s earring pearls. This was a modest request from Susan. They were perfect. I feigned disinterest.

Lauren then went to work specifying what I was told was a pearl drop necklace, choosing the pearl, setting, chain, clasp, etc. It involved considerable work. The chosen pearl had to be drilled and glued to the setting. Many, many passes on the machine were required, followed by hand tooling. I took interest in this operation and the ladies were very professional. Their machines were on the counter a few inches from me. It was fascinating to watch as an engineer. Beautiful work and product.

Lauren selected another multi-pearl necklace, but the chain color was wrong. I got the feeling this was a surprise gift rather than a request. To her credit, Lauren asserted her choice for a different chain. The ladies agreed as long as we committed as the current chain had to be destroyed to get it off. Bottom line, Lauren directed the design and manufacture of the “perfect” necklace for Susan.

Lauren then selected some gifts for friends in Colorado.

Then she turned to choices for herself. By now, she knew the complete inventory of the store. She tried on one pearl choker. It was drop-dead gorgeous on her. I had to pause and juxtapose the beauty that she is with the fearless, badass motorcycle companion I knew from the Ho Chi Minh Road and the Ha Giang loop. I said no, and she moved to choosng more a more modest selection.

Naturally, her Dad suggested the favored choker before we left.

Time to negotiate. We were in a weak position given all the custom work, but we did have modest volume on our side. The ladies, very professional and knowing exactly what they were doing, granted a tiny, immaterial discount and I paid in 2 tranches. I had them break the purchase into 2 packages and receipts as I would be passing through U.S. customs with one in Houston (connecting to Philadelphia) and Lauren would be passing through with the other in Denver.

I was very proud of Lauren. She is a very courageous, empowered citizen of the world. It was also wonderful to see her apply her power and confidence to honor her mother Susan with just the right gifts.

Feeling accomplished, it was time to go back to the hotel while protecting the purchases from any street crime hazards. We never heard firsthand of any crimes while we were in Vietnam but had been warned that crimes against property have been known to happen in the cities – as they can anywhere.

Not wanting to walk, I ordered a Grab motorbike ride back to the hotel. It was a wonderful but terrifying (due to Hanoi traffic norms, not my driver) 10 minutes and cost the equivalent of $0.70 U.S.

I waited at the curb for Lauren to arrive on another Grab motorbike. And waited. And waited. Finally, she came walking up. Apparently no Grab drivers would accept the ride.

I went alone for some street food at a little joint around the corner from the hotel. Stir fried squid, garlic, baby celery (a first for me – think micro bok choy), fiery chili oil, pineapple, and a couple of beers. Delicious.

I waited at the curb for Lauren to arrive on another Grab motorbike. And waited. And waited. Finally, she came walking up. Apparently no Grab drivers would accept the ride.

My boots were still covered with jungle mud from the slime on the shortcut. At last I accepted an offer from one of the guys who caries a shoe shine kit on the street – I had always declined multiple offers each day in Hanoi. The guy secured me one of the ubiquitous plastic chairs from a nearby restaurant, removed my boots, and took them across the street to clean them. He did a fantastic job and I felt I might be allowed to board an airliner the next day.

After a midday break at the hotel Lauren wanted to go to the giant market for more purchases She knew varsity-level negotiating would be involved, which sometimes gets loud, and was nervously bracing herself while breaking down her cast into multiple caches for separate pockets. 

Lauren took a Grab to the market. I walked and hung out at the central fountain while she did her business. She made one tour of the market to assess the products and vendors, then made a second pass through to purchase beautiful handbags and gifts for friends.

We walked back to the hotel after a very full day. After a little time for R&R, we secured a seafood restaurant recommendation from Michael and hiked 20 minutes only to find it closed. We tried to get a Grab car or Grab motorcycles to pick us up for the return, but none of the drivers would accept our trip. I speculate that we were in a section of the Old Quarter where traffic congestion makes the trips unprofitable. So we walked 20 minutes back, settling for a restaurant close to the hotel.

It was Mr. Bay and the cuisine was Banh Xay at tourist pricing, which is 2X what we experienced in non-tourist areas. Crispy fried pancake with tofu and veggies, plus grilled head-on shrimp with salt and chili. Add beers of course. No surprise, it was delicious.

Another fine meal. The most remarkable thing about the meal was overhearing a conversation in English at an adjacent table where a Vietnamese woman recounted specific family members she lost in the American War. Through my time in travels in Vietnam, I never sensed what could understandably be animosity toward us as Americans given the war.

Back at the hotel, I began to pack and organize to pack. Before bed, I went out to the Circle K for a couple of Magnum Ice Cream bars and Chunky Kit Kats for dessert. Little things to celebrate being back in civilization.

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